Our guide is due to arrive at 8:30, so we meet for breakfast at 8:00. There is a sumptuous buffet set up in the room right off the pool and we can choose from French toast, hard-boiled eggs, cereals, three kinds of cheese, including feta and the lovely, salty stuff I've fallen in love with, two kinds of olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, sliced meats, honey, cherry compote, orange juice, grape juice, coffee or tea - and I may have forgotten some things!
We are hoping to be finished by 8:30 when a message comes that our guide will be here at 9:00. That's great because it means we can relax and have that all-important second cup of coffee!! When he shows up we are ready to spring into action. The hotel manager accompanies us out to the van, saying that he is a terrific guide and we are very lucky! Turns out they are very good friends!
Our guide is Hasan Hakam. He speaks charmingly-accented English and is an amazing encyclopedia of Turkish history! We are going today to Thermessos, one of the many ancient cities which can be found in this area. What makes Thermessos unique is that the government has prevented anyone from excavating the city. It has been preserved just as it was discovered, with the exception of identifying signs which have been added for people who aren't lucky enough to have Hakam!
Along the way we make a couple of stops. The first is to buy more water because Hakam says we do not have enough, so we buy one of the huge bottles to refill out little ones. Next we stop at a roadside stand and Hakam buys us a bunch of bananas so that we will have some extra energy and potassium for the day's hike.
Everyone seems to have occupied this ground at some point in the past three or four thousand years! Our first real stop, after the inner and outer city walls, is the northeast Necropolis. While here Hakam shares a few of the many stories associated with thermosses. One involves the first example of chemical warfare! There is a local honey which is very therapeutic if taken in small quantities; however, if you over-indulge is lays you out! It is called Crazy Honey. A spy from Thermosses infiltrated Alexander the Great's army and told the soldiers about the honey, but without the caveat! The next day thermosses attacked and the invaders were unable to fight! Alexander gave up on the idea of conquering the city and instead went to the next town and killed everyone out of spite!
Okay - honesty time. This shot was taken pretty close to the scene of my much-less than graceful visit to mother earth! The only casualty was the knee of my jeans, which I sure am glad I was wearing! I think I did put a small scare into our intrepid band. Thereafter I did notice that the guys were all careful to keep an eye on me. It was great to feel so protected! I have become much more adept at the art of controlled falling! (Lots of practice!)
 |
| Tenple of Artemis |
Another storied involved a guide who was supposed to bring the invaders into the city; but he took them the wrong way and they were never able to find the entrance.
The ruins we see mostly are Hellenic and Roman and include sarcophagi, the baths and gymnasium (school), a colonnaded street and especially the tomb of Alcetas. He was one of Alexander the Greay's generals and when Alexander died his empire was divided among them. Alcetas became the ruler of Thermosses and after a period of time the people split into two factions. The older leaders wanted to kill him and change the government; the younger one were against that. When Alcetas learned of this, he killed himself to save the government from splintering into factions. His tomb is decorated with reliefs, some of which are almost completely intact. The one showing him on his horse has the lower left quadrant broken off; but you can easily see how the pieces fit together.
About the time we arrive at the tomb, it begins to drizzle. We decide to continue anyway, even though the already tricky footing will become ever more so when it is wet. There are no mishaps and we are rewarded for our bravery and perseverance with the Theatre of Thermosses! It could seat 4,500 people in a horseshow shape, which distinguished the Hellenic theaters from the Roman, which were circular.
The most important actor entered through the large, center door, with the others using the two smaller doors. The public entered through the door to the right and had to have a a red, clay ticket with their seat number on it. In the seating section the agreement was that the person in front of you could use your lower legs as their back rest. There was entertainment every day and two different acting companies, one for children twenty and under and the other for adults. The offerings included dramas, comedies, and gladiator competitions.
Hakam has brought us a box of Turkish Delight from his friend's shop. It is pistachio and the perfect small treat to give us strength for our descent!
This is the view from the top.
Beginning the climb back down brought us past a rock tomb which housed an entire family. It was believed that if you were buried high enough you could become one of the gods.
We carefully make our way back down to the base of the city, with some of us going LOTS faster than others! Everyone makes it, though, and we crawl back into the van and head back to town. There is a photo stop and we think it is an overlook of the city, which is it, but mostly it is a wonderful view of the huge tribute to Ataturk, who founded the modern Turkish democracy. He is extremely important to the Turkish people.
We're back in town and thinking about lunch. We pass a large statue of an orange and Hakam says that the orange is the symbol of Antalya. Now that we're aware of that we notice them in several locations, both as statues and 2D representations on banners and such. Of course the skyline is dotted with minarets and I've been trying really hard to capture the call to prayer on my little Flip. It is surprising to me that I seldom hear the call, although it is made five times a day, every day!
Hakam takes us to a restaurant that is used in the evenings for Turkish Nights. We all agree that our Turkish Night was much better; but they make Turkish pizza that is welcome. The traditional appetizers come first, with one that we haven't had before. It is reddish and made of bulgar wheat and spices all squeezed together by hand. Of course it is yummy, too!
After lunch we are hiking to a waterfall!! No, not really! The waterfall, Dudden I, is in a park in town and it is a real waterfall but is accessible to everyone and is in a park-like attraction. It is a great change of pace. I've been craving a waterfall and this does the job beautifully!
This is our final stop for the day and Hakam delivers us safely home. Along the way we discuss his plans to start a guide service for the physically impaired and also for the deaf. He is studying sign language and give us his card so we can put him in touch with our friends who teach sign.
Dinner is at the Vanilla Cafe, an upscale restaurant that greets us with a forest of crystal and the scent of vanilla.
Hone and to bed!! Tomorrow is white-water rafting!
No comments:
Post a Comment